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‘No ordinary pub’ reads the sign above the door. That’d be right. Old China Hand quirkily combines its Irish boozer past with its new Eastern personality in a combination of first-rate real ales and dim sum. Unusually served in fours for sharing, dumplings are masterfully made by Ngan Tung Cheung, a man well used to cooking for discerning diners having worked 14 years at the Dorchester’s Oriental restaurant. An eclectic wine list includes some excellent Asian wines, while the 50-odd beers and ciders come from all over the world. Smiley staff.

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