Nipa is one of only 15 restaurants in Britain to be given the 'Thai Select' award by the Thai government. The chefs, the superbly accommodating waiting staff, the owner, even the teak panelling, ornaments and orchids are Thai so you're getting as close to the real thing as you can do without catching a flight to South East Asia. And the real thing is damned fine as well. Clean flavours in a green papaya salad with just the right amount of spikiness from chillies and citrus juice. Their garlic prawns may not guarantee friends (very garlicky indeed), but do guarantee a marvellous dish.

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